Men 2020

It's not me who's elegant, it's my suit.Marcel Pagnol

One ends, another begins: at the great Fashion Weeks ball, Man opens the dance at the beginning of 2020. If we learnt in September how our summer would look, last week we saw a glimpse of men’s fashion for next winter. Sensitivity, strength and ambivalence are the rules to remember from this men’s Fashion Week.

It's not me who's elegant, it's my suit.Marcel Pagnol

Completely free fashion

Streetwear is dead, long live tailoring!

Daddy’s costume takes pride of place on Parisian catwalks. Like Louis Vuitton, where Virgil Abloh makes tailoring the new cool, heckling it here and there in a hoodie. It’s the same story with Givenchy: Clare Waight Keller marries the tailor with scandalous latex turtlenecks. While Vetements is softening its volumes, Berluti announces colour: bright blue, fuchsia, soft green… A dazzling palette speaks for itself: in 2020, the man (re) puts on his suit in a thousand and one ways.

Precious, anything but ridiculous

There is no question of an alpha male on the catwalks; the designers are trying to shake up the male wardrobe with less conventional details. Sequins, silk and other precious gems are shaping the man of the future at Dior by Kim Jones. Skin itself becomes a material: at Ann Demeulemesteer, it’s adorned with flowers, at Hermès, a suit is worn with nothing underneath… Chic, delicate or a little subversive, the male wardrobe wants to be daring.

Nude is the new black

Ex young designer, Jacquemus has become the fashion show expert. Laetitia Casta opens a catwalk that takes us back to the 90’s (1997 to be precise). 50 shades of beige sets the tone for the season, and it’s no longer for boring baggy clothes. The tone is warmer at Hermès, where the brown sculpts sleek and perfect silhouettes.

If you go looking for trouble you’ll find it

At Gucci, a bag printed with the word “fake” taunts industry rules. At Valentino, they embroider and assert “Bad lover” while Loewe sprinkles his youthful silhouettes with chic SM details. Slightly ironic fashion which has a bit of bite.

The happy green move

A crucial issue, environmental responsibility is making its way onto the male catwalks, driven by the creative avant-garde: upcycled production, recycled fabrics and sustainable clothing are on the agenda for young labels such as Bode or Botter. Concurrently with Fashion week, the shoemaker JM. Weston launched a green initiative, encouraging its followers to restore their worn pairs. An equally green and stylish approach, it was also spotted on Giorgio Armani‘s catwalk in Milan with its R-EA capsule collection (Recycling Emporio Armani), made from recycled materials and organic cotton.